The Broughton Archipelago and Thoughts on Cruising Guides

DSCF1174The Broughton Archipelago is located east of Vancouver Island and made up of hundreds of islets and a few big islands. It is the farthest north we are able to travel this summer as work is calling…

A Note About Sailing Guides
We have a collection of over ten cruising guides for our area on board. Most of them haven’t been updated in years and contain a lot of outdated information. Some guides add a new date to the cover but don’t actually go out and confirm the information. We made a stop where we were expecting a small grocery store that was mentioned in a couple of our guides – it had been closed for several years. In Mexico I was nearly arrested on a beach that was praised in our cruising guide.

Our favorite guides on this trip have been the Salish Sea Pilots (I only wish they made guides north of Desolation Sound – though I hear there are plans). They have a chartlet for EVERY listed anchorage showing exactly where to anchor and attach to the shoreline – most guides simply write a short blurb about the destinations. The Salish Sea Pilots are only available electronically, which at first I thought was a drawback but it makes them easy to navigate, zoom, search and switch back and forth between the overview chart and the chartlet.

DSCF1928 DSCF1904 DSCF1884 Most of the coast line up here is made up of dense trees. We finally found a white (shell) beach. These shell beaches are ancient middens and some are protected as archeological sites.DSCF1807DSCF1820 I have a kayak and Mike has a SUP. Both are inflatable to minimize damage to the big boat and to be able to easily store them when if not needed (when inflated we use this storage rack). They are also much easier to use to go to shore. The tides are quite large here so a dinghy could easily float away or end up high and dry. It is much quicker to launch and beach a kayak or SUP than a heavy dinghy with a 15hp outboard. Mike likes to use the SUP to run our lines to shore, too. DSCF1815  I always have a few sarongs/pareos on hand to make shade. DSCF1742 Lion’s Mane Jellyfish – the largest known jellyfish.DSCF1731 Underway to the next destination.DSCF1617 DSCF1600 DSCF1561  We haven’t been doing too well with the shrimp pot but we have been eating a lot of fresh crab!DSCF1539 DSCF1533 Witch’s Hair = clean airDSCF1526 DSCF1489 Happy hour aboard the Limerick.DSCF1447 “Sometimes” it rains and we have to stay inside or bundle up.DSCF1405DSCF1361 DSCF1397 DSCF1388 DSCF1381  Watch standing, whale watching and enjoying a freshly baked scone. All from the comfort of a dry, heated cabin. That’s Trawler-Life. DSCF1327 DSCF1318 The vase is attached with museum putty which I re-use endlessly. DSCF1316 DSCF1303 DSCF1280 DSCF1263 DSCF1244 DSCF1236 DSCF1218 DSCF1191 We like to tie to shore to keep the boat from sailing around at anchor. DSCF1179

 

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Camille is for Sale… Again!

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Our previous boat Camille has been in the hands of a great owner for the past two years. A growing family forces them to downsize and sell Camille. They haven’t used her much and I hear she is in similar condition as when we sold her. She was a great cruising boat with a huge swim step and lots of light and ventilation. Located in San Francisco, California

Highlights

  • Watermaker – high output
  • Solar – 300 watts
  • Very low engine hours on Yanmar
  • Dinghy and outboard
  • Electric windlass with 200′ of chain

Saloon with 6’6″ of headroom, complete with a convertible dinette and facing settee with warm teak-and-holly sole throughout. Nearly all interior bulbs have been replaced with warm LED.

Galley has Corian counters and is big enough for two. Lots of counter space and storage, side-by-side refrigerator and freezer, ForceTen oven/3-burner stove, microwave, and a top loading trash bin set beside the double basin stainless sink with pressure hot and cold water.

Private V-berth includes vanity with sink and storage as well as plenty of cedar lined hanging locker space. Aft is the master stateroom with a queen berth, seat, lockers and two hanging closets.

Dual access head offers a Corian covered vanity, VacuFlush marine head (no smell) and shower stall, all wrapped in a complete fiberglass shell for easy cleaning and maintenance.

On deck, the cockpit easily seats eight on custom navy cushions. The steering and instrument console includes two large, folding table leaves.
The large swim-step with a sturdy swim-ladder makes it easy to get on and off the boat and features a shower with hot and cold pressure water.

Roller furling jib and stack-pack main make sailing a breeze. All lines are led aft and powered by an electric winch.

Anchoring is easy and safe with electric windlass and Manson Supreme on 200 feet of chain.
300 Watts in solar panels power the fridge to keep the wine chilled and the anchorage quiet.
Daily showers are no longer a luxury on board with the 20 gallon per hour watermaker.

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2001 HUNTER 380
LOA: 37’3″
LWL: 32′
Beam: 12’7″
Displacement: 15,595 lbs
Draft: 6’6″
Water Capacity: 75 gallons
Holding Capacity: 35 gallons
Fuel Capacity: 30 gallons
Headroom: 6’6″

POWER
Yanmar 40HP 3JH3E Diesel Motor with low hours
55 amp alternator
Racor 500 Turbine Fuel Filter (2012)
Honda Generator eu2000i (2012)
New Cutless Bearing (June 2013)

NAVIGATION
Raymarine RL70CRC Plus Chartplotter with chart cards
Raymarine Raystar 130 GPS Antenna (2013)
Raymarine Radar
Raymarine depth, speed, and rudder angle indicator
Standard Horizon Matrix GX2150 VHF Radio with AIS (2012)
Raymarine 6001 Autopilot
LED stern and anchor lights (2012)
7×50 marine binoculars

ELECTRICAL
12 Volt 4D Gel Deep Cycle House Battery (May 2013)
12 Volt Starter Battery separate from house
Three 100 watt solar panels with Zantrex controller/monitor (2012)
Custom frame for solar panels aft of traveler arch (acts as bimini) (2012)
Heart 1000 watt Inverter and Battery Charger
Bonded throughout

SAFETY
Whale Gusher Manual Bilge Pump
Electric Bilge Pump
Shower Sump Pump
Lifesling MOB system in custom navy-blue sunbrella case
Two Carbon Monoxide/Smoke/Fire Alarms
Three Fire extinguishers
Emergency Tiller
Fenders
Docklines
Wire Cutters

GROUND TACKLE
45lb Manson Supreme Anchor with 200 feet of 5/16″ G4 HT chain and 150′ rode (2012)
40lbs Bruce anchor
Simpson Lawrence electric Windlass with foot switches

SAILS
Selden B&R Rig
Stack Pack Mainsail with three reefs
Internal “Jiffy” reefing boom
Lapper with navy Sunbrella cover on furler
Three Lewmar Winches
One Electric Lewmar Winch
Chainplates and some rigging replaced (2012)

COMFORT
Cruise RO 20GPH watermaker with spare filters (2012)
Manuals for all systems on board
Hunter 380 manual
16 opening hatches
Large cockpit table with two wings
Cockpit cushions of navy Sunbrella
Dodger made of navy Sunbrella
Custom two-part insert between solar panels and dodger of navy sunbrella (2012)
Gimbaled Weems and Plath “yacht lamp” (2012)
Pressure hot/cold water pump with accumulator tank (2012)
Freshwater/saltwater foot pump at galley sink (2012)
Vacuflush freshwater flush Marine Toilet (no smell!!)
35 gallon holding tank and macerator
Four Caframo two-speed Cabin Fans (2012)
27″ HDTV/monitor at nav station (2011)
Cockpit shower with hot/cold pressure water
Huge Swimstep with lots of storage
Stereo with USB and two auxiliary audio jacks
Cockpit and cabin speakers
Weather station with indoor and outdoor sensors (2012)
Analog Barometer
Froli sleep system (2012)
Mosquito screens for all hatches
Sunbrella covers for all horizontal hatches on deck
6 gallon water heater (2010)
Interior LED lighting throughout (2012)

GALLEY
Force 10 three burner stove and oven with rails and pot holders
Two 10 pound aluminum propane tanks (one new in 2012)
Marine BBQ with cover
Microwave
Alder Barbour Freezer and Fridge with new (2012) thermostats
Tons of storage
Roomy enough for two to work side-by-side

TRANSPORTATION
Zodiak Cadet 250 RIB with folding transom, Baja wheels and storage bag (2012)
2006 Nissan Four Stroke 5HP outboard (runs great!)
Outboard fuel tank (2012)
See list above for what is included. Some items shown in pictures are not included.
We need to get back to work so Camille is seriously for sale/sail!
More photos/info available upon request.

 

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Princess Louisa Inlet, BC

Monk 36 LimerickOur cruising guide states that Princess Louisa Inlet is the “‘holy grail’ for cruising people all over the world”. It did not disappoint. After a 40 mile trek up beautiful Jarvis Inlet we arrived at the entrance to Princess Louisa: The Malibu Rapids – which can run up to 9 miles an hour.  We arrived a few hours before slack tide and took a look at the pass. Here is a video of when probably not to enter the inlet in a slow boat. 

When the tide turned our transit was smooth sailing. 

At Malibu Rapids is a beautiful lodge that was built for the rich and famous back in the 1930s and is now being used as a youth camp.Malibu Rapids, Princess Louisa Inlet, BCWe cruised another four miles up the inlet, surrounded by 6,000 foot fjord walls and water falls, to arrive at Chatterbox Falls and the free dock. Note the size of the boats in the center of the photo compared to the surroundings.Princess Louisa Inlet and Monk 36 LimerickAnd looking the other way.Princess Louisa Inlet, BCKayaking in my inflatable.Princess Louisa Inlet, BC Donations are accepted for the free dock.Princess Louisa Inlet, dockPrincess Louisa Inlet, Chatterbox Falls Mike and Chatterbox FallsPrincess Louisa Inlet, Chatterbox FallsPrincess Louisa Inlet, BC Chatterbox Falls DSC_0779DSC_0798Dinner on the bow.Dinner on the bow. Limerick Monk 36We also spent a couple of nights at the other anchorage in Princess Louisa Inlet: McDonald Island.Princess Louisa Inlet, BC McDonald Island Monk 36 Limerick at anchorThere was an abundance of oysters and mussels for us to enjoy. We made it just in time before the season closed on May 31.DSCF0300 DSCF0272 DSCF0256 DSCF0220 DSCF0192Breakfast on the flybridge with this view.Breakfast on the flybridge. Limerick Monk 36Monk 36 Limerick, binoculars

Right now we are in a marina for the night, stocking up on food, defrosting the fridge, cleaning the boat, doing laundry, and catching up on internet. Oh, and taking showers – in Mexico we could just jump in the ocean and then have a quick rinse but the water here is very cold – a water-maker is definitely on our upgrade list!

 

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Dodd Narrows, BC

Monk 36 Limerick goes to CanadaSeeing the BC ferries is a sure sign that we made it to Canada! We checked in at Bedwell Harbor with a simple phone call to customs. The poor chap next to us was searched and interviewed for hours. He was complaining loudly about his fate, so it just goes to show that if you show a little respect and follow the rules there are no problems.DSCF9566While underway this is usually our setup. Cruising guide, plotter/sounder and iPad with Navionics app. Above is another sounder. DSCF9553After checking into Canada around noon we made it to Dodd Narrows just in time to catch a nice 3-4 knot current at 6pm. We actually had to slow down on the way there so we would not be going with a 6-7 knot current.DSCF9557Here is a short time-lapse video of our transit through the narrows.

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Shallow Bay, Sucia Island, San Juans

Limerick Monk 36 Shallow Bay Sucia IslandWe left Anacortes in the rain with the promise of more rain to come. Our destination being the West side of Sucia Island in a perfect little cove that we had stumbled upon the last time we were at Sucia Island a little over a month ago. The promised rain was left in our wake as we passed the south end of Lummi Island.Limerick Monk 36 underway

Weather are no weather we had to get out of Anacortes – we had been there for nearly a month getting the boat ready to head north. We topped the diesel off. At $1.78 per gallon we squeezed in as much fuel as we possibly could.

This perfect cove will be our anchorage until the perishables run out and we can enter Canada with a clean conscience that we will not be bringing in any contraband.Limerick Monk 36 Shallow Bay Sucia Island  Shallow Bay Sucia Island kayaking Trying out the new free-dive suit that will also come in handy if we get anything wrapped around the prop.Freediving aboard Limerick Monk 36It’s warm when the sun is out but the wind is still chilly so the enclosure acts like a greenhouse and keeps us out of the wind.Limerick Monk 36 enclosure flybridge Limerick Monk 36 snacks Shallow Bay Sucia Island kayaking

 

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From the Interstate to the San Juan Islands

After three weeks in sunny San Diego it was time to head back to the boat….

San Diego Self Realization FellowshipOne of the reasons we made the trip to San Diego was to pick up our cargo trailer full of boat and household stuff.  We took full advantage of having access to a garage to go through all of our things and re-organize. When we sold Camille we didn’t have much time or space and pretty much just tossed everything into the trailer. Packing our gearWe had planned on renting a truck to haul our trailer to Washington but Mike’s parents offered to tow it for us in their own car. (Thank you!!) After only 200 miles on the road we had our first (and only) tire failure on the trailer.  The entire wheel just flew off! Good thing we have a two axle trailer. We spent an unplanned night in Bakersfield and were able to get back on the road the next day.Cargo trailer tire Cargo trailerAfter three days of driving we finally made it back to the boat.  We made a few provisioning runs and headed to the San Juan Islands on a perfect weather forecast.

On a side note: Since we usually don’t have access to a car when we are cruising we like to stock up. A few weeks ago I found this amazing shelf-stable, no refrigeration required bread. It lasts for four months, is organic, non-GMO and tastes freshly baked. Mystery Bay Washington Underway Monk 36 Limerick Dinghy on beach Sunset in Washington Shallow Bay Sucia Island Sucia Island Sucia Island Sucia Island Matia Island dock

 

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Jones Island

Monk 36For $200 you can get an entire year of mooring and docking in Washington’s state parks. That is a great bargain especially if you don’t limit your cruising to the summer. Turns out few people actually cruise in the winter and we have had every anchorage to ourselves so far.

We spent a few sunny days at Jones Island before the weather turned ugly and drove us into port.1-DSCF7773The floating docks are removed in winter but landing the dinghy is a breeze on the steep beach. Of course dinghy wheels like we had on Camille would certainly make it easier to pull the heavy dinghy up the beach.1-DSCF78541-DSCF7777 We picked up one of five balls in North Bay. There are three more in South Bay.1-DSCF78461-DSCF7808 Winter-time moss is this amazing bright green — the photos don’t do it justice. 1-DSCF7811 1-DSCF7817 1-DSCF7843 The seals follow our every move and go under as soon as they see the camera.1-DSCF7801Gnarly!1-DSCF7852

 

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Dealing with Condensation

Monk 36 master stateroomWhen we cruised Mexico aboard Camille we had very few issues with moisture and condensation. Baja is a desert and the windows were always open to keep the air flowing. Here in the Pacific Northwest we have the opposite: rain, cold, closed windows. A cushion resting against the hull will be damp in no time. The diesel heater is helping to dry things out on the hook. When we are at the dock we use space heaters pointed at enclosed spaces.

One of the biggest moisture collectors is the bottom of a mattress after sleeping on it for a night. On Camille we had a (rather expensive) Froli system under our mattress — mainly to try and give our thin mattress a little more bounce. On Limerick we have a great mattress but nothing to deal with the condensation. So we picked up some hypervent which came highly recommended by a great online group of women sailors I am part of. We cut it (quite easily with scissors) to also come up the edges of the mattress where it touches the outside hull.

It is working out fairly well. The bottom of the mattress is staying dry. Now the moisture has moved below the hypervent and seems to be drying as the day progresses. I had expected no condensation, but I guess that is a bit much to ask in this climate. We’ll be purchasing more hypervent for the V-berth.

hypervent

 

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